![]() 07/17/2017 at 16:29 • Filed to: BEL AIR, WRENCHING | ![]() | ![]() |
Just needs a front axle, fenders, hood, grille, bumper, lights, steering box and linkage, radiator, fuel pump, ignition, carburetor, starter, alternator, water pump, fan, master brake cylinder, brakes, wheels and seats
[Update]
The wishbones have now been cleaned and treated with rust converter, the bushings changed, just need some paint. The front panel, springs, and several small bits were cleaned, treated and painted flat black.
Water pump, fan, fuel pump, carburetor, alternator and starter are in place, but not hooked up yet.
No change on fenders, hood, lights, steering box and linkage, radiator, interior or brakes.
We lost some time on the clutch and gearbox linkage. Several severely worn links had to be restored/replaced, and we had to drop the transmission and clutch to do so.
[Update 2] We installed the lower control arms along with the new shocks and refurbished springs.
[Update 3] Upper control arms, axles, and front sway bar installed. Front panel assembled, new mounts for front panel modified to fit the car (ordered rubber mounts from Rockauto, seemed to be for another car, but mostly usable). I removed the front panel again for now.
We also started (barely) the engine yesterday, noticed an oil leak in the oil feed line to the rocker arms, so that needs to be fixed, one step forward, two steps back. It runs ok, but since it has no cooling and “manual fueling” it didn’t run for long. Also ignition and carburetor need to be tuned obviously.
[Update 4] Small progress this week-end, the steering and brake drums are painted and installed. The oil leak in the feed line is repaired. The fuel line is installed, so it gets it’s fuel from the tank now.
The idle is pretty stable, but it still needs a bit of tuning and a cooling system so we can let it run for more than a few seconds at a time. The wiring should also be done, we still start the car by shortcutting the starter with a screwdriver.
We put the wheels on it and pushed it out to free the hoist for the Pajero (which will have a seperate post). The back seats are in again also, and tomorrow the front bench should get in.
Slowly but surely, it gets close to being a car again.
![]() 06/26/2017 at 16:53 |
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Just needs a
front axle, fenders, hood, grille, bumper, lights, steering
box and linkage, radiator, fuel pump, ignition, carburator, starter,
alternator, water pump, fan, master brake cylinder, brakes, wheels and
seats
EVERYTHING.
Fixed that for you :P
![]() 06/26/2017 at 16:55 |
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How considerate of you. Thanks :)
![]() 06/26/2017 at 17:04 |
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Awesome, I’m very curious if it will be faster than the V8 in the end, as this engine should have about its rated power, whereas the V8 probably won’t.
![]() 06/26/2017 at 17:11 |
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I’m gonna sabotage it. I cannot accept this!
I actually hope it will be more powerful than stock, since it went from 3.8 to 4.0L during the restoration
![]() 06/26/2017 at 17:31 |
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Well, it gives you a reason to rebuild the V8, haha.
Ah I see, so it should have about 150-ish hp with the increased capacity?
![]() 06/26/2017 at 17:49 |
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You’re welcome! :P
In seriousness, that engine looks pretty clean! :) Straight-6s ftw!
![]() 07/03/2017 at 04:38 |
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I think there are only two things you can do responsibly while being drunk: drinking more and going to bed, haha.
Nice progress, though!
![]() 07/03/2017 at 04:47 |
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I think 150 might be a bit optimistic, I believe the engine had 123hp from factory with the 3.8L and the 4.3L version had 150hp, so maybe 135hp? Depends on the compression I get now I guess.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 04:48 |
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Thanks, was a lot of work, I hope it runs well now, didn’t get to start it yet.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 04:49 |
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Thanks! I hope to get it ready for TÜV in 2 weeks, I have a day off and I would like to take advantage of that and take it there.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 05:10 |
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Fair enough, that is still a healthy figure for a straight 6 from the 60s.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 05:10 |
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Drunk Ebaying is the best Ebaying!
Good time Charlie is a bastard though. Like a wallet Mosquito.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 05:36 |
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That is how I get my project cars!
1. Going on eBay
2. Finding a car I like at a stupidly low price
3. Bid on it thinking I’ll never get it for this price
4. Win the auction
5. Discover why the price was so low
6. Project
7. Profit?
![]() 07/03/2017 at 05:44 |
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That’s similar to how I got my 3 wheelers and then some.
The profit part is always a pain in the ass.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 05:55 |
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Progress is good!
![]() 07/03/2017 at 06:36 |
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Now doesn’t that sound familiar... ;)
![]() 07/03/2017 at 08:35 |
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What are we looking at?
![]() 07/03/2017 at 10:11 |
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It’s a 1960 Chevrolet Bel Air 6 cylinder 4-door I bought sight unseen on ebay Germany last August when drunk on joy I had with my other, running V8 Bel Air of the same vintage.
I thought I could make a quick buck by fixing up a few things and flipping it.
I was wrong.
The engine was
ruined
, My father and I rebuilt it completely, put it back in the car, and hope to finalize it in the next weeks. I might do a write-up of the story when done
![]() 07/03/2017 at 11:04 |
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This car is in Germany? You can get an American dinosaur like this one to pass the
TÜV
?
![]() 07/03/2017 at 11:08 |
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If it’s properly maintained, anything that was once allowed on the road can get TÜV. As long as everything is to OEM specs, or noted and approved if modified, you’re cool. It wasn’t able to get the TÜV when I bought it by the way, it should be when I’m done.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 11:10 |
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How do they react to performance modifications? What is the approval process for mods? Technology has advanced significantly since 1960.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 11:27 |
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I’m not completely aware of how it is handled, since my cars are all registered in France, where power modifications are almost impossible to do legally.
But from what I know, all replacement parts must be TÜV approved for this specific model of car (ie: wheels come with a list of cars on which they are allowed to be put on) or you have to go through an “Einzelabnahme” which means your car is thoroughly tested, and if the TÜV guy gives you a greenlight, all mods are documented in the cars paperwork, they then say that this mod is “eingetragen”
![]() 07/03/2017 at 11:30 |
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Pän in the arse. And California is thought to be difficult.
![]() 07/03/2017 at 11:46 |
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Somehow it’s a good idea, it makes sure the cars on the street are safe, and if the cops have a doubt if your mods are legal, you can just show them the paperwork to prove them it is.
In France, everything regarding bodywork or soft engine mods (like exhausts or ECU tuning) are a grey area, as long as nothing happens and you pass the 2-year technical inspections and you are free to drive around. But it’s technically illegal to modify the power of your car, so if you get in crash, insurance can refuse to pay.
![]() 07/08/2017 at 09:49 |
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Wow - I’m surprised that there isn’t an age limit to these restrictions. It’s not hard to imagine a lot of mods to this car that would make it safer (brakes, suspension etc)
And, having driven a 62 Impala with this engine and a Powerglide, I’d argue that a small block swap would add safety, too - the 6 is painfully slow. But gorgeous nonetheless! Saw this and thought of you a few weeks ago. It’s a gorgeous Impala 4 door HT with a stove bolt and 3 on the tree.
![]() 07/08/2017 at 13:02 |
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You can do pretty much anything as long as you use common sense and approved parts. Bigger engines need bigger brakes etc...
![]() 07/08/2017 at 17:01 |
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The stovebolt has way more style than the small block, but even the 283 four barrel in the other Bel Air is terribly slow. While I kind of like the idea of keeping things stock, I would love to daily one with a more modern engine and brake system.
Then again, you can modify a car legally, but making it legal is a pain in the ass and expensive, so nobody does it.
That’s one clean Impala, but who ordered the high end car with the smallest engine in the first place?
![]() 07/08/2017 at 21:22 |
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The stove bolt is cool in its own way - and very reliable. Great for cruising at low speeds at least. Pretty common in the Biscayne and even the Bel Air, but not in the Impala.
That car in the picture was a really nice black with a red interior that was immaculate. Body was very good driver quality.
The ‘62 that I drove some years ago was also a 4 door hardtop, strange enough- I was looking to buy it, but it was just too underpowered for me. Ended up with a ‘’64 Olds, 394 and rotohydramatic. Much nicer on the highway.
Good luck with it - looking good!
![]() 07/11/2017 at 06:16 |
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It’s stuff like this that makes me really glad I live in the UK (despite our soon-to-be nosediving economy). Places on the continent have a massive stick up their arse when it comes to car modifications.
![]() 07/11/2017 at 06:19 |
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UK is crazy when it comes to mods! I like it
![]() 07/11/2017 at 06:28 |
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Love seeing people do things with the stovebolt 6s. Have a 292 in my 63 C10. Planning to add a turbo to it. Way more cool than another LS or sb350 swap.
![]() 07/11/2017 at 08:12 |
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Haha from my perspective everywhere else seems really uptight about it!
![]() 07/11/2017 at 09:08 |
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I mean, driving on a sofa might be a bit over the top, but yeah, an engine swap should be allowed if done properly
![]() 07/11/2017 at 09:12 |
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Hah I remember that :)
To be honest, it’s his own life he’s gambling with. If anything it’d be much nicer to get hit by a sofa than any car. I say go for it!
![]() 07/11/2017 at 09:22 |
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try explaining that to your insurance :)
![]() 07/11/2017 at 10:15 |
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Insurance is a whole different thing. Bloody extortionate in the UK.
However, as a trade-off for freedom to modify stuff I’m entirely happy with it!
![]() 07/11/2017 at 16:45 |
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I’m really hoping that by “manual fueling” you mean “gas in spray bottle into the carb” because that’s my favorite.
![]() 07/12/2017 at 01:13 |
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We didn’t really have a spray bottle, so I dripped it in the carb
![]() 07/12/2017 at 17:48 |
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Still counts! I refer to that method as “Manual throttle body fuel injection”
![]() 07/18/2017 at 08:36 |
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That’s exactly how I got my BMW E30 Touring on German Ebay.